Walk into any modern clinic and you will see dermaplaning and microdermabrasion sitting side by side on the menu, both promising smoother, brighter, more even skin. They sit in the same family of non invasive exfoliation, yet they behave differently on the skin and deliver distinct results. I have performed both hundreds of times, on complexions that range from reactive and rosacea-prone to oily, congestion-prone skin that seems to drink up any exfoliation you throw at it. When you compare dermaplaning vs microdermabrasion, context matters: skin type, hair on the face, current skincare routine, budget, and your tolerance for a tiny bit of post-treatment flake or tightness.
This guide breaks down how each treatment works, what you can expect during a dermaplaning session or microdermabrasion visit, who benefits most, and where the trade-offs lie. I will weave in real-world pitfalls I see in the treatment room and the small adjustments that often make the difference between a forgettable facial and a glow that lasts.
What each treatment actually does
Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation technique. A trained provider uses a sterile surgical blade held at a precise angle to gently skim dead skin cells and vellus hair, also known as peach fuzz, from the surface of the face. Think of it as a controlled “shave” that lifts the stratum corneum and polishes texture without suction or crystals. A dermaplaning facial often pairs this blade work with enzyme mask, hydration, light extractions, or a calming mask to minimize any transient redness. Because it removes hair along with dull surface buildup, dermaplaning for glowing skin is not just a marketing line, it is a predictable result in the right hands.
Microdermabrasion is a form of mechanical exfoliation using either a diamond-tipped wand or fine crystal spray with gentle vacuum to abrade the outermost layer of skin. The device glides over the face in passes, and the suction whisks away debris while also increasing local circulation. Microdermabrasion can be more adjustable in “grit” and suction than a blade, which helps providers tune it for oily skin with clogged pores or resilient, sun-damaged skin that needs a bit more polishing. Many clients book microdermabrasion for uneven texture or dullness that seems to linger no matter how often they exfoliate at home.
Both count as non invasive cosmetic procedures. Neither requires downtime in the medical sense. In practice, skin may feel temporarily tight, a bit sensitive, and more receptive to serums, so your aftercare does the heavy lifting in the days after treatment.
How they feel in the chair
A dermaplaning treatment feels like a soft scraping, similar to a facial razor but more precise. There is no suction, no grit, and no heat. If the provider preps correctly with a degrease step, the blade glides in short, consistent strokes. I often combine a dermaplaning blade facial with a gentle enzyme to soften any stubborn patches around the nose and chin. Clients who dislike the buzz of a device or the sensation of suction tend to love dermaplaning’s quiet, controlled feel. There is an almost instant gratification to seeing fuzz and flakes gather on the blade.
Microdermabrasion feels like a light sandpaper buff with a tug from the vacuum, especially around the cheeks and jawline. With diamond tips, the sensation is consistent from start to finish. With crystal microderm, there can be a faint gritty feel until the final sweep. It is not painful, but sensitive skin notices the suction more than the abrasion. I typically run one to three passes depending on the skin’s response, then cool things down with a hydrating mask.
What they do best
In my experience, dermaplaning outperforms microdermabrasion when the main goals are peach fuzz removal, an immediate makeup-ready finish, and a smooth, soft touch result without suction. It creates an even canvas, so foundation sits flatter, highlighter catches light more evenly, and SPF glides on without catching on fine hairs. Brides, on-camera talent, and anyone scheduling a glow up treatment for a specific event are excellent candidates for a dermaplaning glow facial 3 to 5 days before the date. If your top priorities include dermaplaning for dull skin, dermaplaning for brightening, and dermaplaning for smoother makeup, the blade is the better tool.
Microdermabrasion shines when the target is roughness, enlarged pores that look congested, early sun damage, or stubborn dry patches that resist chemical exfoliants. The vacuum element helps lift debris from pores while improving microcirculation, which can brighten skin without removing hair. I reach for microdermabrasion when I want a pore refining facial for someone who breaks out easily with heavy occlusives, or when there is superficial scarring, uneven texture, or that “weathered” look after a summer outdoors. For clients seeking incremental improvement on acne scars, microdermabrasion can be one step in a plan that also includes enzyme facials, light chemical peels, or microneedling later down the line.
The truth about hair: will dermaplaning make peach fuzz thicker?
No. Vellus hair will grow back at the same rate and thickness. It can feel blunt as it returns because the blade cuts the hair straight across, but the follicle biology does not change. The myth persists, and I address it in almost every dermaplaning consultation. If you have coarse, dark terminal hairs along the chin or upper lip, dermaplaning will remove them temporarily like shaving. Those hairs will feel more noticeable when they regrow, not thicker, but more obvious due to blunt ends. For routine chin hair, I coordinate with waxing or laser and reserve dermaplaning primarily for peach fuzz removal and dermaplaning exfoliation over the rest of the face.
Skin types and common scenarios
If you have dry, flaky skin that seems to soak up moisturizer but still looks dull under makeup, dermaplaning for dry skin provides instant relief. Removing the micro-forest of vellus hair and compacted flakes allows hydration serums and creams to reach the skin more effectively. I often see clients return reporting they used less foundation because their texture looked refined.
Oily skin with visible congestion often does better with microdermabrasion first. The suction helps dislodge debris, especially around the T-zone, and the controlled abrasion can be increased slightly to handle resilient areas without overworking fragile cheeks. I may follow with extractions and a balancing mask. For ongoing oil control and fewer clogged pores, rotating microdermabrasion every 4 to 6 weeks with a home routine that includes salicylic acid makes the biggest change.
Sensitive skin can tolerate both, but it requires a cautious approach. Dermaplaning for sensitive skin can be very gentle, since the blade action is superficial and precise. I avoid aggressive passes, skip fragrant products, and shield with a ceramide serum and mineral SPF. For microdermabrasion on reactive types, I use low suction, minimal passes, and lots of cooling hydration. If you have active rosacea with papules and persistent redness, I favor dermaplaning’s light touch or a no-exfoliation hydration facial instead.
For hyperpigmentation and uneven tone, neither treatment is a pigment eraser. Both can brighten a dull surface and improve light bounce, which makes skin appear more even. For dermaplaning for pigmentation or microdermabrasion to reduce superficial dark marks, the effect is incremental and pairs best with pigment-regulating serums like azelaic acid, niacinamide, and gentle retinoids once the skin has recovered. I avoid both if there is a current melasma flare after significant sun exposure, and instead focus on barrier repair and strict sunscreen use for a few weeks.
Fine lines and early textural changes respond to both modalities, with microdermabrasion offering a slightly stronger surface smoothing if I can do two or three passes and finish with a peptide mask. Dermaplaning for fine lines improves optical smoothness, which is why photographs look so good after a dermaplaning professional facial. For real anti aging gains, clients see best results when these exfoliations are woven into a broader plan: nightly retinoids as tolerated, daily SPF 30 to 50, and seasonal chemical peels or microneedling.
Safety considerations I insist on in practice
I do not dermaplane over active, inflamed acne. A single pustule is workable with careful skip techniques, but a breakout field risks spreading bacteria and creating micro nicks that prolong recovery. For those wanting dermaplaning for acne scars, I target clear skin months, using dermaplaning to refine texture and prep for light peels that address pigment and shallow scarring.
I do not microdermabrasion over broken capillaries, sunburn, or compromised barriers. Post-retinoid irritation needs a rest week. If you are mid-isotretinoin or within 6 months of finishing, both treatments are off the table until your provider clears you.
Pre-appointment, pause exfoliating acids, scrubs, and retinoids for 2 to 4 nights. Arrive without self-tanner on the face. After either treatment, avoid hot yoga, steam rooms, and intense workouts for 24 hours. Sleep on a clean pillowcase that night. These simple steps reduce the risk of small bumps or irritation.
The session flow: what actually happens
A dermaplaning session starts with a double cleanse and a degrease step using an alcohol-free prep solution. I map the face by zones. With the skin taut, I pass the blade in feather-light strokes at a consistent angle, changing blades at the first sign of drag. I work around brows and hairline with precision. I avoid lesions, moles, and any active breakouts. Post-exfoliation, I usually apply an enzyme to digest residual surface proteins, then a hydrating mask with humectants and barrier supporters like glycerin and beta glucan. Sun protection is non-negotiable before you leave. Dermaplaning steps are straightforward, but the rhythm and pressure control only come with experience. The service takes 30 to 50 minutes depending on whether it is a standalone dermaplaning face treatment or a dermaplaning combo facial.
A microdermabrasion visit also starts with cleansing and degreasing, then I choose a diamond tip grit and suction level suited to your skin. I perform even, overlapping passes, usually two in oilier areas and one on delicate zones. The device captures debris in a filter that tells me how much I lifted. Post-device, I often do light extractions, a cooling mask, and antioxidant serum. Total time is 30 to 45 minutes, or longer if paired with an enzyme facial or LED.
Results, frequency, and maintenance
Both treatments reward consistency. Dermaplaning results are immediate: makeup glides, high points glow, tone looks brighter. That instant glow peaks around day two or three. Hair returns on its usual cycle, often noticeable again at two to four weeks. Most clients schedule dermaplaning maintenance every 4 to 6 weeks to sync with cell turnover. For a first-timer nervous about sensitivity, I might stretch to 6 to 8 weeks and monitor how skin behaves.
Microdermabrasion results include a polished surface, reduced roughness, and a fresher look that develops over a dermaplaning near me few days as any transient tightness settles. For textural improvements and pore appearance, I like a series: three to six sessions spaced 3 to 4 weeks apart. After that, seasonal touch-ups help maintain gains.
Cost and value
Pricing varies by region and setting. In a clinic or spa in the U.S., a dermaplaning service typically ranges from 75 to 200 dollars as a standalone, often 115 to 250 dollars when packaged as a dermaplaning professional facial with mask and serums. Microdermabrasion pricing is similar, sometimes slightly lower for a basic pass and higher for advanced protocols. Adding LED, enzyme peels, or hydrating ampoules raises the cost. I tell clients to focus less on the cheapest “dermaplaning near me” and more on training, hygiene, and how well the provider personalizes the dermaplaning procedure to your skin rather than executing a rigid routine.
When I recommend dermaplaning, when I steer to microdermabrasion
I reach for dermaplaning when the brief reads: event coming up, face is dull, peach fuzz is catching powder, and sensitivity rules out acids. It is the best dermaplaning choice for instant glow, smooth finish, and a refined base for makeup. It also pairs beautifully with a hydration facial combo, since freshly exfoliated skin traps moisture better.
I recommend microdermabrasion when the skin is relatively resilient, pores look congested, and there is a desire for more thorough mechanical smoothing. It also works well for men who do not want hair removal on the entire face. For teenagers or beginners with blackheads and uneven texture, a gentle microdermabrasion combined with enzyme and extractions can kick-start a clearer routine without heavy actives.
Pros and cons at a glance
- Dermaplaning benefits: immediate brightening, dermaplaning for smoother makeup, peach fuzz removal, gentle feel, great for sensitive or dry skin when performed softly. Cons: not ideal over active acne, hair grows back at normal rate and may feel blunt, results vary if technique is inconsistent. Microdermabrasion benefits: deeper textural polish, pore refining, adjustable intensity, helpful for oily or resilient skin. Cons: suction can irritate sensitive skin, no hair removal, a series is often needed for noticeable changes in texture.
Realistic pairings and alternatives
Clients often ask about dermaplaning vs chemical peel or dermaplaning vs laser facial. Dermaplaning is safe to pair with very superficial chemical exfoliation in the same visit when executed by a trained professional who reads the skin. I favor an enzyme facial after dermaplaning rather than an acid peel for most skin types. If a peel is used, stay mild, think lactic 10 percent range, and extend recovery recommendations.
As for laser, I avoid pairing on the same day. If you are planning a laser facial for pigment or collagen remodeling, use dermaplaning a week or two beforehand to remove surface buildup so energy distributes more evenly. After laser, wait for full recovery before any blade or abrasion touches the skin.
For those with deep acne scars or significant pigment, microneedling, fractional laser, or targeted chemical peels deliver more noticeable change than either dermaplaning or microdermabrasion. I position dermaplaning and microdermabrasion as excellent maintenance or prep steps, not substitutes for corrective procedures.
Aftercare that protects your investment
The 48 hours after your dermaplaning facial or microdermabrasion visit set the tone for how your skin looks over the next week. Keep it minimal and kind. Hydrate generously. Use a bland moisturizer with ceramides, glycerin, or squalane. Apply SPF 30 to 50 every morning, even if the weather is gray. Skip retinoids, strong acids, and scrubs for at least 2 to 4 nights. Wash with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water. If you must wear makeup the same day, choose a breathable formula and remove it thoroughly that night. A brief, cool compress calms any residual warmth. If your skin is prone to post-inflammatory pigment, sunscreen is not negotiable. I have seen clients undo a beautiful dermaplaning glow by going for a long run without SPF the next morning.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
At-home dermaplaning performed with cheap blades is a top culprit for nicks, patchy results, and irritation. Professional dermaplaning uses sterile, single-use blades, precise angles, and tension techniques that consumer videos cannot teach. I discourage DIY if you are acne-prone, on active topicals, or have sensitive patches. If you insist on trying dermaplaning for beginners at home, keep it rare and gentle, and stop if you see any pinpoint bleeding.
With microdermabrasion, the mistake is overshooting intensity on thin skin, especially around the lower cheeks, resulting in prolonged redness or tiny scabs. The right provider will reduce suction, limit passes, and change tips as needed, rather than pushing the same setting across the whole face. Another misstep is stacking too many exfoliating steps at home right after a clinic treatment. The barrier needs a moment to recover.
Tailoring by life stage and goals
For teens with early congestion or roughness, I prefer gentle microdermabrasion and enzyme work, with education on cleansing routine and sunscreen. Dermaplaning for teens is rare unless peach fuzz removal is an explicit concern before a special event.
For men, microdermabrasion navigates facial hair more easily and avoids the sensation of a clean shave across beard zones. Dermaplaning for men works nicely on the upper cheeks and forehead for those who want a crisp, polished look without touching the beard line.
For women preparing for photos, dermaplaning for brightening and a smooth finish remains my go-to. I dermaplaning clinics Jackson Rd schedule the dermaplaning session at least three days ahead to let any micro-sensitivity settle. For mature clients prioritizing anti aging, I alternate: dermaplaning for instant radiance one month, microdermabrasion the next, and a light chemical peel seasonally, alongside nightly retinoids and daily SPF.
Making the choice: a simple decision guide
- Choose dermaplaning if you want peach fuzz removal plus a glassy surface, you have dry or sensitive skin, or you want makeup to sit flawlessly for an event within a week. Choose microdermabrasion if your main concern is texture, clogged pores, or mild scarring, and your skin tolerates suction and abrasion well.
If you remain torn, a dermaplaning consultation can include a small test area and discussion of your routine. I often start with dermaplaning for beginners who feel wary of devices, then introduce microdermabrasion later if texture needs more attention.
Before and after: what realistic improvement looks like
The best before and after expectations keep the focus on clarity, brightness, and smoothness, not miracles. With dermaplaning, expect a visible increase in reflectivity, an even lay of makeup, and a softer feel to the touch. With microdermabrasion, expect refinement of rough patches, slightly tighter-looking pores over a short series, and an overall clearer look. For both, photos taken in the same natural light tell the story more honestly than glam lighting. Results last longest when you maintain sunscreen daily, moisturize appropriately, and avoid over-exfoliating at home.
Final thoughts: better together, or one at a time?
There is no single winner in the dermaplaning vs microdermabrasion debate. They are different tools. Dermaplaning gives you speed to glow and hair removal that no other exfoliation provides. Microdermabrasion gives you adjustable mechanical smoothing and pore support without removing hair. Many clients rotate them based on the season, events, and how their skin is behaving. That is the most sustainable approach I see in clinic life.
If you are shopping for a dermaplaning skincare treatment or microdermabrasion service, prioritize clean technique, customized plans, and straight talk about aftercare. Ask about blade changes, device maintenance, and how the provider adapts for your skin history. Safe dermaplaning and well-executed microdermabrasion share the same backbone: respect for the barrier, thoughtful product choices, and the discipline to do less when skin is talking back.
When those pieces line up, you get what everyone is really looking for, not just a one-day glow, but smoother, clearer, more predictable skin month after month.